Water waves on sloping beaches

نویسندگان

چکیده

برای دانلود باید عضویت طلایی داشته باشید

برای دانلود متن کامل این مقاله و بیش از 32 میلیون مقاله دیگر ابتدا ثبت نام کنید

اگر عضو سایت هستید لطفا وارد حساب کاربری خود شوید

منابع مشابه

Draw-down and run-up of tsunami waves on sloping beaches

Christian Klettner PhD Post-doctoral Fellow, National University Hospital Singapore, Singapore Sridhar Balasubramanian PhD Post-doctoral Research Scientist, Physics Division, Los Alamos National Laboratory, Los Alamos, NM, USA Julian Hunt PhD Emeritus Professor of Climate Modelling, University College London, London, UK; Visiting Professor, Arizona State University, Tempe, AZ, USA; Visiting Pro...

متن کامل

Conservation Laws for Shallow Water Waves on a Sloping Beach

Shallow water waves are governed by a pair of non-linear partial differential equations. We transfer the associated homogeneous and non-homogeneous systems, (corresponding to constant and sloping depth, respectively), to the hodograph plane where we find all the non-simple wave solutions and construct infinitely many polynomial conservation laws. We also establish correspondence between conserv...

متن کامل

Theoretical and experimental study of particle trajectories for nonlinear water waves propagating on a sloping bottom.

A third-order asymptotic solution in Lagrangian description for nonlinear water waves propagating over a sloping beach is derived. The particle trajectories are obtained as a function of the nonlinear ordering parameter ε and the bottom slope α to the third order of perturbation. A new relationship between the wave velocity and the motions of particles at the free surface profile in the waves p...

متن کامل

Edge waves along a sloping beach

Standing on a gently sloping straight beach, it is a matter of observation that various waveforms propagate on the surface of the sea. Among these we find edge waves water waves that progress along the shoreline. These waves, often difficult to visualize (this has, probably, prevented the regarding of this waveform as important for a long time), are coastal trapped, i.e. their amplitude is maxi...

متن کامل

Analytical solutions for forced long waves on a sloping beach

= ∂f ∂t2 for x > 0, in which Y (x, t) denotes an unknown variable, f (x, t) a prescribed forcing function and b a positive constant. This equation has been used to describe landslidegenerated tsunamis and also long waves induced by moving atmospheric pressure distributions. We discuss particular and general solutions. We then compare our results with numerical solutions of the same equation and...

متن کامل

ذخیره در منابع من


  با ذخیره ی این منبع در منابع من، دسترسی به آن را برای استفاده های بعدی آسان تر کنید

ژورنال

عنوان ژورنال: Bulletin of the American Mathematical Society

سال: 1946

ISSN: 0002-9904

DOI: 10.1090/s0002-9904-1946-08643-7